Christina Adamo
Tailoring
The Job
For the year after I graduated college, I worked for the United States Navy as a tailor.
Based out of the Newport Naval Base, I worked for the Navy Exchange Uniform Shop.
In my duties here, not only did I tailor a variety of uniforms for the Navy, the Marine Corps, the Army, the Coast Guard, and the Air Force, but I also served as a fitter for the store. As a fitter, I matched military service men and women in Naval Uniforms, making sure to stay to the strict code of regulations the Navy adheres to.
How to Fit: Navy Uniforms
Khaki and Summer Whites
The Khaki Uniform, or the working uniform of Naval Officers was perhaps the least complicated of the uniforms to fit. These uniforms used waist measurements (as well as hip measurements for women) to find a proper size. The most important part of fitting this uniform was to make sure the pants were not too tight, and the pockets lie flat against the thighs. Once the khaki size was confirmed, the pant sizing of the summer white uniform and the other uniforms would most often be consistent across the board.
Service Dress Blues
The Service Dress Blue uniform is the token uniform of the Navy. This jacket is made by companies Flying Cross and Brooks Brothers, and each Officer had the choice of which brand they preferred. When fitting these jackets, the most important aspect was making sure the arms fit properly, without leaving too much access fabric around the chest and waist. This often involved taking in or releasing backseams to reach a proper fit. Additionally, each jacket sleeve was measured and marked to hit the Officer one inch above the knuckle.
Service Dress Whites
The Service Dress White Uniform, commonly known as the Choker, is the second dress uniform of the United States Navy. Worn during the summer, this uniform features a stand collar and a flared bottom. When fitting these jackets, the important part to note was, again, whether the sleeves and chest fit comfortably in the jacket. Alterations commonly marked on this jacket are the taking in/releasing of backseams, the shortening/lengthening of the collar, and sleeve shortening to one inch above the knuckle.
Naval Working Uniforms (NWU)
The Naval Working Uniform, often shortened to the NWU, is worn identically by both men and women. To pass an NWU inspection, the blouse must be long enough to cover the crotch seam, the front flaps must close without issue in the front, and the pants must be long enough to touch the ground. So, when fitting these uniforms, the process cannot be complete until those very specific regulations are met. This can prove difficult for women, who often have trouble closing a unisex uniform over the widest part of the hips. However, no alterations can be made to these uniforms while the Officers are in training school, so a long process of trial and error may take place.